Now is the time, here in the Midwest, to tackle those saplings that are in your fence line or growing where you don't want them to grow. The timing is right because the trees are going into dormancy and you want to catch the tree when it is not growing for the following method. But snow and freezing temperatures are around the corner so you better do it now!

For those smaller saplings, less than 1-4 inches circumference, the best bet is to dig as deep as you can around the root system and then cut the trunk as close to the ground as you can.

And one added measure to prevent the sapling from coming back next year is to mix just a little cement (Quick crete will do fine) and dump it over the remaining roots and then cover it back up with dirt. By using this method you are preventing the needed water and light the tree needs to survive.The key is to tackle these saplings before they get too big.

The best control for those pesky little sapling cropping up in your lawn is just to mow regularly and to prevent them from growing in the first place so rake those seeds up as soon as they fall.

I personally have not tried to kill any tree larger than the above mentioned, however, I had some large trees growing in the fence line when I first moved to my current home and I opted to call professionals to do the task. They cut all the branches off first and worked their way down to a stump about 1 to 2 inches from the ground and painted a chemical immediately on the stump. (Check with your local extension agency or local nursery for the best chemical to use.) I understand it is crucial to put the chemical on immediately while the cut is fresh. I am normally a snoop and watched the whole process and couldn't help but bug them with questions. They told me on larger trees you only have to paint the outer 2-3 inches as the inside area is already dead. The outside layer is, of course bark, and plays no role in the tree's feeding system (bark is only a protection for the tree) but next to the bark is cambium (the part that will heal wounds) and the Phloem (the transport system) and they are the areas you should target with the chemicals.

There are a few additional options you can try before resorting to chemicals and some people swear by them but I can't guarantee any of these will work, however, they are sure worth a try.

I recall many farmers will cut a tree down to a stump and then cover the stump with tin securing the tin with nails. I'm not sure how well it worked but I don't recall later seeing the stump had a rebirth.

I have also heard that pounding copper nails into a tree will kill it. Again, some people swear by this method but I also have read there aren't any scientific facts to prove or disprove that it works.

You can tackle bigger trees on your own but if you are going to force a tree to die you must also consider if there are branches that could fall and cause harm to people, surrounding buildings or cars. In addition, using chemicals, if not applied correctly can leach into surrounding soil and kill other plants. There is, of course, the danger of skin contact to the human as well.

Watch for my article coming in the Spring on how to tackle those big tree problems. Why Spring? Because that is the best time of the seasons to use some of the methods I'll be talking about. Stay tuned.