Post by Tumbleweed on Dec 2, 2007 15:36:23 GMT -6
Thought I'd create a separate thread since Cactuspatch asked how to do this. I'm glad she asked because I need to do this ASAP. I've done it only once since I lived in this house and it has been ages ago.
By the way, my water heater is gas so I only know how to do gas.
First turn the water heater on "pilot" (D) so the burners don't come on. VERY IMPORTANT as your heating element could burn out very easily if the water level drops below the heating element. Anyway, it should be clearly labeled "pilot". This water is HOT so be very careful!! I know, duh.
Connect a garden hose to the drain valve (F) located at the bottom of the tank. Orient the end of the hose to empty into your floor drain or sink.
Shut off the cold inlet valve (A).
Open the relief valve (H) and leave it open.
Open the drain valve (F) and let it run until it looks clean.
Note: My water heater is relatively new but I have heard of people having so much gunk in the bottom that the water doesn't drain out. In this case you have to turn the cold water valve back on to help move this gunk out. If this doesn't work you may have to make this a long process by allowing the water too cool in the heater and then digging it out with a unbent clothes hanger or some object you can stick in there. If you have to resort to this, it would be a really good idea if you put a pan
or something under the valve while you dig out the debris. Don't forget to let the water cool off! And once you get it free-flowing shut the cold inlet valve off again.
Once the water looks good you can
Oh and a couple notes: Something I forgot to do last time.....go to a sink and run the hot water until all the air pockets were gone. Since I forgot this last step last time, later when I went to turn on the hot water it made such a big sputtering noise it scared the heck out of me. Almost gave me a heart attack.
* Make sure you still have a pilot light on ,as if there is a breeze, it may have blown it out. If it is out, I can't tell you how to light it. (Me and lighting furnaces and water heaters do not get along, LOL)
Here are some photos of my water heater so you know what parts are what. Sorry I couldn't get back far enough to give you a full view. These photos are not click-able for a larger view.
A. Cold Inlet Valve
B. Flue (nothing to do with flushing your water heater)
C. Hot Water Inlet
D. Pilot
E. Heat adjuster/thermostat (nothing to do with flushing your water heater)
F. Drain Valve
G. Panel comes off to light the pilot
H. Relief valve
Consider this a fair warning! If you have a very old water heater you know has never been flushed do not be surprised if, after removing the debris from the bottom of the tank, you also uncover a hole (leak) where the metal has rusted through.
By the way, my water heater is gas so I only know how to do gas.
First turn the water heater on "pilot" (D) so the burners don't come on. VERY IMPORTANT as your heating element could burn out very easily if the water level drops below the heating element. Anyway, it should be clearly labeled "pilot". This water is HOT so be very careful!! I know, duh.
Connect a garden hose to the drain valve (F) located at the bottom of the tank. Orient the end of the hose to empty into your floor drain or sink.
Shut off the cold inlet valve (A).
Open the relief valve (H) and leave it open.
Open the drain valve (F) and let it run until it looks clean.
Note: My water heater is relatively new but I have heard of people having so much gunk in the bottom that the water doesn't drain out. In this case you have to turn the cold water valve back on to help move this gunk out. If this doesn't work you may have to make this a long process by allowing the water too cool in the heater and then digging it out with a unbent clothes hanger or some object you can stick in there. If you have to resort to this, it would be a really good idea if you put a pan
or something under the valve while you dig out the debris. Don't forget to let the water cool off! And once you get it free-flowing shut the cold inlet valve off again.
Once the water looks good you can
- close the drain valve
- close the pressure relief valve
- turn on the cold inlet valve
- remove the hose
- Turn your water heater back on *
Oh and a couple notes: Something I forgot to do last time.....go to a sink and run the hot water until all the air pockets were gone. Since I forgot this last step last time, later when I went to turn on the hot water it made such a big sputtering noise it scared the heck out of me. Almost gave me a heart attack.
* Make sure you still have a pilot light on ,as if there is a breeze, it may have blown it out. If it is out, I can't tell you how to light it. (Me and lighting furnaces and water heaters do not get along, LOL)
Here are some photos of my water heater so you know what parts are what. Sorry I couldn't get back far enough to give you a full view. These photos are not click-able for a larger view.
A. Cold Inlet Valve
B. Flue (nothing to do with flushing your water heater)
C. Hot Water Inlet
D. Pilot
E. Heat adjuster/thermostat (nothing to do with flushing your water heater)
F. Drain Valve
G. Panel comes off to light the pilot
H. Relief valve
Consider this a fair warning! If you have a very old water heater you know has never been flushed do not be surprised if, after removing the debris from the bottom of the tank, you also uncover a hole (leak) where the metal has rusted through.